Serena Williams' Royal Oak: Why 38mm Is Not a Gender

By Mark Miller · Published September 16, 2026

Collector opinion based on published brand information and launch reporting, not a hands-on review. Information checked September 16, 2026.

A watch diameter is a measurement, not a dress code.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph Serena Williams Limited Edition gives collectors a timely reason to revisit an old question: why do we still use size and colour to decide who a watch is supposed to be for?

A watch can express femininity without excluding men. It can be compact without being a compromise. And it can carry a famous name while still deserving scrutiny as a mechanical object. Those distinctions make this release more interesting than a simple celebrity-watch announcement.

What is the Serena Williams Royal Oak?

Audemars Piguet's official product page identifies the watch as reference 26450CB.OO.1356CB.02. Its defining features include:

Hodinkee's September 15 launch coverage reports a 500-piece edition, a CHF 70,000 price and an additional pink rubber strap. Confirm current regional pricing and availability with Audemars Piguet.

This is a high-luxury release, not an accessible answer for every collector. Its broader relevance is the conversation it opens about how we assess watches, including watches at very different prices.

38mm is not automatically a women's watch size

The phrase "too small for a man" treats one measurement as a rule about identity. It is not a useful way to decide whether a watch fits. The equally rigid idea that women should only wear small watches fails for the same reason.

Our position is simple: if you like the design, can wear it comfortably and can read it easily, a gender label should not disqualify it. That does not mean every watch needs neutral styling. A deliberately feminine design can remain feminine without becoming off-limits to anyone else.

Serena's involvement matters on its own terms. In Audemars Piguet's presentation of the collaboration, the brand describes a relationship spanning more than a decade and a design shaped by her vision. Collectors can acknowledge that intention while making their own decisions about wearing the result.

This release does not prove that the entire market is moving to smaller watches. It also does not suddenly make 38mm acceptable for men. The more useful point is that collectors do not need a trend's permission to choose that size.

Why the movement belongs in the discussion

AP describes Calibre 6401 as an integrated chronograph developed in-house, with a patented vertical-clutch system and a movement visible through a sapphire caseback. Those details give the discussion a mechanical foundation beyond colour and celebrity association.

That is how the watch should be assessed: as a complete design, with an exterior, a movement, a wearing experience and an ownership cost. Pink should not cause someone to overlook the engineering. Engineering should not prevent someone from disliking the pink.

Collectors should be free to reach either conclusion without turning a personal preference into a universal rule.

How to decide whether a 38mm watch fits you

Start with a try-on rather than a rule based only on wrist circumference. Two watches advertised at the same diameter can feel very different. Treat the following as a practical checklist:

These checks are not a formula for finding one correct size. They help separate a watch you enjoy wearing from a watch you think you are expected to wear.

If you are building a collection, that distinction also belongs in your buying process. Our guide to starting a watch collection without chasing hype explains why personal priorities should come before outside approval.

Does a celebrity collaboration make a watch worth collecting?

Not automatically. A long-standing relationship gives a collaboration context, but it does not relieve the product of having to stand on its own. The design still needs to appeal to you. The price still needs to make sense for your circumstances. A production limit is not proof of future desirability.

A useful test is to imagine the same watch without the celebrity story. Would you still study the dial, appreciate the construction or want to try it on? If the answer is yes, the association can add meaning rather than carry the entire purchase decision.

The Rehaut 1775 view: keep the choice, lose the restriction

We do not need to replace "everyone should wear bigger watches" with "everyone should wear smaller watches." Both reduce collecting to following instructions.

The better outcome is more room for individual taste: a man choosing a compact pink-dial watch, a woman choosing a larger sports watch, or either choosing something entirely different. No collector owes a size trend their loyalty.

Serena Williams' Royal Oak is a useful starting point for that conversation. The lasting lesson is not that 38mm is perfect for everyone. It is that the right size should be decided on your wrist, not by someone else's category.

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